Tech Tip - Road Trip Readiness

For many of you this is the time in the “riding season” that you have trips planed and are about to leave for one.  There are two areas for getting ready for a trip first and most important is to make sure your bike is ready. Second is to pack your bike safely.

 

The most important part about going on a trip with your motorcycle is to make sure it is ready. Before you leave on a trip you should check over your bike or bring it into one of our service departments to have it looked over. If you bring your bike in to us or look over it yourself this is what needs to be checked. The tires and breaks should be looked and to make sure there is enough life to make the whole trip, that is something that best to be check by your service department. 

Tire pressures should be check before you leave. Before and while you are on the trip you should check all major electrical components like headlight (high and low beam), turn signals (front and rear), brake light and running lights (front and rear).

 

     

Second area to get ready for your trip most likely will happen the night before you leave and that is packing your bike. Many of you may bring tools with you. If you do or anything else that is heavy it should be packed at the lowest point possible. For example if you have saddlebags it should be at the bottom of your bags and weight equal is both bags for best handling on the road. Also remember that you are limited on space on your bike so small travel size containers save a lot of space. To help with space management remember you can buy whatever you may run out of and wash your clothes at a laundry mat if you run out of clean clothes.

If you need or think you need tires or brakes or any service before you leave for your trip just stop by one of our service departments and we will be happy to go over what you may need to make your bike safe for your trip. For those of you taking trips on your bike have a safe and wonderful time.

Greg Smith

Service Manager

Fox River Harley Davidson

Tech Tip - Oil Q&A

Ten Questions & Answers About Motorcycle Oil For Your Harley-Davidson

1.  Why should I use Harley-Davidson Motorcycle oil?
This is the only available motorcycle oil specially developed for Harley-Davidson motorcycle engines.  It is also the only available oil tested for two years by our engineering staff on engine dynamometer stands in Milwaukee and motorcycle track tests at Talladega.  And in other tests, Harley-Davidson has found it to be superior to other oils.

 

 2.  Can I use aviation oils in my Harley-Davidson?
We do not recommend this, because these oils do not contain an important additive that provides good wear protection of the Harley-Davidson engine.

         

 3.  What viscosity grade should I use in my Harley-Davidson?
The recommended viscosity grade for use in all temperatures is SAE 20W50 Harley-Davidson Oil.  The SAE 50 grade is satisfactory in ambient temperatures of 60 deg to 90 deg F, and the SAE 60 grade is appropriate for ambient temperatures above 80 deg to over 100 deg F.

4.  At what temperature will Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil break down?
 This oil has been designed for use at temperatures up to 300 deg F for extended periods with no significant breakdown.

5.  What oil temperature is best for my Harley-Davidson?
A good oil operating temperature range is 200 deg to 240 deg F.  Water condensation and acids tend to build up in the oil if the temperature is consistently below 180 deg F, and oil thickness can become marginal at temperatures above 300 deg F.

6.  Does Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil do anything besides lubricate engine parts?
Yes.  Besides lubricating engine parts and preventing wear, it protects the engine from rust and corrosion, keeps the inside of the engine clean, cools engine parts and "seals in" combustion pressures, prevents foaming, permits easy starting and quick oil circulation, and reduces friction and power loss.

 7.  Is it true that oil never wears out?
No.  All motor oils wear out.  During normal use, the oil molecules undergo a chemical reaction with oxygen and begin to break down; additives in the oil become depleted; and contaminants like water, gasoline, soot and dust get mixed in with the oil.  Therefore, your motorcycle oil needs to be changed at the interval recommended by Harley-Davidson.

8.  Can I go longer between oil changes if I put in a new oil filter?
No.  The filter keeps the oil free of solid matter, but it doesn't remove water, gasoline or acids.  Also, it can't pinch-hit for additives that become used up.  Follow Harley-Davidson's recommended intervals for oil and oil filter changes, and don't expect a new filter to extend the life of the oil.

 

9.  Is it okay to mix Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil with a different brand?
Harley-Davidson Motorcycle oil is compatible with other petroleum oils.  However, mixing with another oil will reduce the superior engine protection of Harley-Davidson oil, so this should be done only when absolutely necessary.

10.  Does it help to put in a can of additive with each oil change?
No!  Just as you wouldn't add sugar to a bottle of soda, you shouldn't use additives with Harley-Davidson Motorcycle oil.  It already contains the right additives in the correct amounts to last between recommended oil changes.  More additives won't help.  In fact, they might upset the oil chemistry and create problems you wouldn't ordinarily have.  Use Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil and forget the extra can of additive.  It's money down the drain.

Tech Tip - Braking

Braking is a crucial skill for every motorcyclist to master. Being able to effectively apply the brakes to slow or stop your motorcycle can provide more stability, especially when cornering at higher speeds.

Front Brake vs. Rear Brake
The front brake systems of most motorcycles are designed to provide the most stopping power, handling as much as 65 to 100 percent of the braking responsibilities. The front brake is best used to provide maximum deceleration at higher speeds. Rear brakes, even those employed on larger touring bikes, only supply 35% of a motorcycle's total stopping power and are designed to assist the front brakes. The rear brakes are best used at slower speeds.

Combined Braking
Most motorcycle safety instructors and courses teach a method employing both brakes. On the street, using a combination of front and rear brakes can offer shorter, better controlled stopping distances. Generally, speeds below 35 mph require an even split between the front and rear brakes, but as speed increases the front brake is required more with decreased assistance from the rear.

Braking and Cornering
Riding a motorcycle into a turn is the purest of joys. Proper braking technique, however, is the key element to navigating any bend in the road. Braking while in a turn is risky, splitting the front wheel's traction between braking and cornering. Brake too hard and the chassis' stability will be interrupted, possibly leading to a low side crash. Proper technique requires all of your braking be done before the bike begins to lean. In practice, find your turning point and brake to set your entrance speed. Release the brake to allow the chassis to settle, and then lean into the turn.

Every rider and every motorcycle reacts differently to every situation. So your best bet is to get to know your bike and how it handles to different braking situations.


Mike J.
Service Manager
City Limits Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - Battery Life

When should I replace the battery in my bike?

I've known John since he purchased his Sportster new in 1998.  I haven't seen John in a while due to moves kids, pets and job changes.  So, it was a surprise to see him at the service counter on Monday evening.

It turns out John is looking to sell his bike.  And he needs a battery to get it running.  This time of year, we see a lot of people come in for a replacement battery, and looking at the date codes on the old batteries we get an idea of approximately how long a battery will last in each of the types of bikes (turns out it's usually between 3 and 4 years with good battery care.)

John didn't have his battery with him so I asked him how old his battery was.  Turns out he was replacing his original battery!  That's over eleven years of service out of his original battery.  That's an exceptional life for a battery on a Sportster.  John attributed the long battery life to several things:

• He always pulls the battery out of the bike during the winter and brings it inside the house
• He keeps the battery on a Battery Tender battery charger inside the house
• When he's installing the battery every spring, he uses a corrosion protectant on the terminals

John didn't mention this, but after working on his bike a few times, I know he also tightens the heck out of his battery terminals to be sure the bolts don't come loose.  When the bolts come loose, the connection will arc and build up corrosion on the terminals and cables.  This can make the bike difficult to start and even prevent charging, leading to shortened battery life or even being stranded with a bike that won't start.

While John was at the counter explaining his battery care tips, another rider was nearby and overheard our conversation.  He remarked "I replace the battery in my bike every two years.  I can't afford to be stranded if my battery decides to die on the way to The Roundup or a bike blessing."

So, there you have two extreme opposites of the battery spectrum. John, whose original battery lasted and amazing eleven-plus years, and Earl who replaces the battery in his Street Glide every two years for peace of mind.

Ride Safe.
Chris Hajer

Tech Tip - Backfiring or Popping on Deceleration

More than likely your engine is "popping" not really backfiring. Backfiring, is extremely rare these days with electronic ignitions and the high reliability of engines. Real backfiring means the engine is not properly timed and the fuel/air mix is getting a spark and ignition at the wrong time (when the intake valve is open). Real backfiring is actually the bike "spitting up" in a sense, backwards through the carburetor or intake.

 

So, the popping you are hearing is not back-firing. It is a popping resonating sound generated by a lean condition on deceleration. When you suddenly close the throttle, the incoming air is choked off and the closed throttle also causes the bike to return to idle on the very lean idle circuit. However, momentum of the bike is actually "driving" the engine in a sense, and that engine is still spinning at rpm that needs far more gas than the closed throttle position can provide. The engine is still spinning but the incoming fuel rate is very low, until just enough builds up in the combustion chamber to "fire" on the exhaust stroke of the engine.

Don't "change the plugs" like some people suggest, it’s a waste of time and money. Messing with the ignition timing really won't help either, because it is still a lean fuel/air mix on deceleration that is the cause. ( I said cause and not problem, because the popping is not at all damaging to the bike).

 

 Often people think their bike is not tuned properly after the addition of “aftermarket” mufflers because of the additional popping they hear. Stock mufflers provide a lot of volume for the rumbles and popping in the exhaust to be toned down by resonating in the larger muffler canister. Motorcycle builders also have to meet sound regulations along with emission standards. Some of that sound proofing is in the mufflers. But, aftermarket mufflers that offer easier breathing, and are usually lighter and smaller, don't offer that same volume (Less volume = less sound attenuation = more noise and more popping). Modifying the exhaust (especially if it gets louder) will only make the popping louder. Because most aftermarket pipes produce "lower back pressure", to add to the popping; aftermarket pipes also tend to lower back pressure this will cause the fuel/air mix to lean out. So don’t worry about that popping you sometimes hear and enjoy this year’s riding season.


Tony D.
Service Manager
Wild Fire Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - New ride Woes

Tony from Mount Prospect recently brought in his 2002 Sportster XL1200 Custom with just 965 miles on it.  The bike was beautiful; immaculate and nearly brand new.  This bike is new to him, having just purchased it from a friend, and he had a few concerns.

1. "There's a noise like air blowing in the front end of the bike."

That's a pretty odd description of the problem, but at least I know where to look (and listen).  After a couple of minutes of discussion with the customer I determined that the noise goes away when the brakes are applied.  This is good information.  I took the bike for a quick ride, got it up to speed, then turned off the motor.  I heard the noise the customer was describing (I'd describe it like a "shush, shush, shush" from the front end.)  The noise also went away when the front brake was applied.

After verifying that the rotor was not warped (front brake lever did not pulse when applied) and that there was fluid in the master cylinder (the sight glass was dark) I explained that the noise he was hearing was perfectly normal.  It's caused by contact between the brake pads and the rotor.  The brakes on some bikes make an intermittent sound, like this one, and other make more of a constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" as the wheel turns.  So long as brake function is normal, this noise by itself does not indicate a problem.  Concern addressed.

2.  "Speedometer stopped working."

This one is easy to verify (during the test ride for the front brake noise, I verified that the speedometer was not working.)  The lighting on the speedometer was still working, but the trip odometer and speedometer were not working.  There are only a couple of things that can fail with this system: a) speed sensor at the transmission, or b) the speedometer itself. 

Being a 1200 Custom and subject to the excess vibration in the handlebars, I thought in this case it might be the speedometer, NOT the more common speed sensor.  I removed the seat to get at the connector for the speedometer tester and immediately found the problem.  The wiring from the speed sensor to the speedometer had been disconnected. It looked like someone had recently installed a battery and either moved the connector and it came undone, or unplugged it.  In any case, after putting the connector back together, I was able to verify on another test ride that the speedometer was working.

In the process of looking over the motorcycle to address Tony's concerns, I found and fixed a couple additional problems.

1. Left hand controls were loose.  This was a common problem on the 1200 Customs due to the type of handlebars on the bike and the way they're mounted.  Harley-Davidson even had a recall for the mirrors on this bike due to excessive vibration and mirror breaking.

2.  Top front motor mount bolts were loose.  Sportsters prior to 2004 (non-rubber mounted) were all subject to these bolts loosening up and sometimes even falling out.  Any time there's a lot of stress on a fastener, like this one, it's subject to loosening up.

3.  Throttle cables had too much free play.  This is a maintenance item.  The throttle control needs to have a certain amount of free play to be safe when the handlebars are moved, but the free play in these cables was excessive.

It's interesting to note that the customer knew about two of the concerns, but the other three problems were not mentioned at all.  That's the benefit of bringing your bike in for service.  We have trained technicians with years of experience on all the Harley-Davidson and Buell models. We can quickly and easily diagnose AND repair issues like these, while you wait.

Ride safe!

Chris Hajer
Service Manager
Illinois Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - Washing your Bike

If you want motorcycle cleaning tips that will help you clean your motorcycle faster, easier, and without damaging it, here are some tips to help you...

       

NEVER START WITH A HOT MOTORCYCLE LET IT COOL FIRST 
  
What Motorcycle Cleaning Products You Will Need:

•    Some soft, clean cloths. You'll need some for washing and some that you keep dry for drying and polishing. A dirty rag can scratch the bike.     
•    Wheel cleaner made specifically for wheels
•    Leather conditioner for saddle and any accessories
•    Clean sponges - a dirty sponge can contain dirt which can scratch paint and chrome.
•    Cleaning solution made specifically for motorcycles. Because the cleaners will get on the paint, saddle and chrome, use products that are not going to cause problems with discoloring the finish or "blue" the chrome. When it comes to motorcycle cleaning, many bikers make a mistake of using the wrong motorcycle cleaning products, which can damage your motorcycle.
•    You may want a bucket for mixing solutions. Follow the mixing directions on any supplies. Be sure each product is used properly.
•    Of course, you need a water hose as well.
If you have heavy dirt or have bugs on the fenders, hose down those areas gently from top to bottom first. This will allow them a kind of "pre-soak" to loosen them. Beginning from the top to the bottom, wash gently, using a clean soft cloth or a wash mitt. If your cleaning cloth becomes soiled, do not take the chance of scratching the paint or chrome; change to a clean cloth. If you use a sponge, be absolutely certain no debris gathers in the sponge pores and causes scratches.

Rinse the bike from top to bottom, paying special attention to any areas of extra heavy soil. If the heavily soiled areas do not come clean, you may need to do a little extra cleaning in those areas. Just remember to be gentle. It is far better to wash a spot three times than to rub the area hard and end up with no shine in the paint, dulled chrome or visible scratches.

Check every little place that dirt can hide to be certain you have the motorcycle completely clean. Then begin the final rinse process. Hose the motorcycle from the top down. Then rinse exactly the same way again. Leaving any trace of cleaning products is very bad for the finishes. While rinsing, watch how the water reacts and drains from the bike. If water beads, then a full polish is optional. If the water runs off in sheets and fails to bead at all, you probably need to take the time to perform a full polish job with manufacture-recommended polishes

Use a wheel cleaner and soft rag to completely and thoroughly clean each wheel. Not only does dirt collect on the wheels, but as the brakes are used, dust from the brake pads can get on the wheel and actually cause corrosion because the metals react with one another. Rinse the wheel thoroughly.

Dry your motorcycle off with clean soft rags. This process can best be done in the shade rather than direct sunlight, if possible. This prevents streaking. Check for streaks and if you need to, dampen a spot and dry that area again. Just a few drops of water is all you need to moisten a streaked spot.

Mike Johnson
City Limits Harley-Davidson - Service Manager