Thursday, March 31, 2011

Tech Tip - Spring Riding Checklist

Spring Riding Checklist:
It’s time to get your bike ready to ride.  Here are a few tips from our experts in the service department as we get back on the roads:

Change your oil and filter. 
Temperature changes during the winter months may have introduced water condensation and lessened the protection level.

 
Change your spark plugs. 
A fresh set of spark plugs each season is an inexpensive way to ensure optimum performance.

 
Inspect your tires and air pressure. 
Look for signs of dry rot, as well as punctures and slices in the sidewalls.  Make sure you have plenty of tread.  Now is the time to pull out your Motorcycle Owners Manual and check the recommended tire pressure for your model.  Properly inflated tires not only help the motorcycle operate correctly, but they will keep you safer on the road, as well.  Remember that tire pressure should be adjusted according to the load for one-up or two-up riding

 
Check your lights and signals. 
Visibility is safety, enough said.

 
Check your gear. 
Don’t forget the safety features that you wear!  Inspect rain gear for holes or tears, make sure your face shield is clean and free from scratches or cracks and check that your boots have thick sturdy soles and adequate tread.

Now get out there and RIDE!

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Tech Tip - POWDER COATING the CHORME Alternative

Nothing turns heads more on the street than a well tuned Harley rolling by decked out in chrome.  From fork legs to wheels, mirrors to grips and every bracket in between the appeal of the classic look of chrome plating rarely disappoints.  But there is an alternative, and one that over the past 5 years has really grown in popularity among riders. For good reason, more riders are having parts powder coated.


Differing from normal paint in that powder coating is essentially baked on, it gives riders one of the most economical, long lasting, and color-durable quality finishes available.  The process provides a protective as well as decorative finish.  The powder used is a mixture of finely ground particles of pigment and resin.  The charged particles adhere to the electronically grounded surfaces until heated and fused into a smooth coating in a curing oven.


Powder coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading and wearing than most other finishes.  Color selection is virtually unlimited with both high and low gloss, metallic and clear finishes. Thanks to the UV resistance of many of the powders, colors stay bright and vibrant longer.  And texture selections range from smooth to a wrinkle or matte finish – matching the Factory's cosmetic motor treatments.



Almost anything you could imagine chrome plated can also be powder coated.  Windshield brackets, headlamp rings, wheels, handlebars..  the list goes on.  Parts that are oxidized, chrome plated or just plain rough looking can be stripped, prepped and coated for a lasting durable finish.  And with the wide array of color options you can get more creative working with powder coating.


The cost of powder coating is often less expensive and the process is more environmentally friendly than the chrome alternative. 


Probably one of the most popular parts we see getting powder coated are exhaust systems.  A high-heat resistant powder coating on exhaust systems will provide a great custom look. A ceramic coating is added to the interior of the headpipes to help retain heat, or an exhaust wrap with also help manage heat.    The benefits to exhaust systems include superior corrosion resistance protection against nicks and rust and prolonged muffler life.

From a cost, durability and creative perspective, powder coating is a great alternative to chrome plating.  So next time you're considering adding chrome to your bike, take a step back and let your imagination ride wild!



Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service team

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Tech Tip - Headlamps

 During nighttime riding, a motorcycle's headlight is often the only available light source. So, proper adjustment of a motorcycle's headlight is a crucial step in ensuring rider safety.  If the headlight is improperly aimed, the rider will not be able to see the road ahead well enough to safely operate the motorcycle. Also, headlamps can loosen or move due to  vibration, allowing the headlight to shift to an ineffective position. Headlight alignment should be checked often, and adjustments or repairs made promptly when needed.

  

Different styles of headlight are now available through Harley Davidson which can improve your night time vision. New headlights based on light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and high-intensity discharge (HID) technology. Enhancements also are being made to the halogen technology that remains the mainstay of headlight technology. In recent years, motorists have grown increasingly familiar with the bright, almost blue-looking light of HID headlights on high-end models. Instead of a filament, there are two electrodes and a light arc that fills the space between them. This results in a longer lifetime and greater light output. The resulting light is whiter than that of conventional halogen headlights. Until recently, a third alternative in lighting technology – the light emitting diode, or LED – was reserved for non-headlight applications, including interior lights, turn signals and brake lights. LED headlights are costlier than halogen – and about the same, or even more costly, than HID. But on the plus side, they use considerably less energy than the other technologies. LED headlights are about 95 percent more efficient than halogen.


Another advantage of LED headlights in comparison with halogen and HID is that they have longer life. The average lifetime of a halogen headlight is about 1,000 hours. In comparison an HID headlight lasts about 3,000 to 4,000 hours and an LED headlight lasts more than 6,000 hours, which is the lifetime of the average motorcycle. LED headlights also are less yellow than halogen lights, approaching HID in their whiteness and brightness and that should improve driver response times.


Thanks, Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team

Friday, March 11, 2011

Tech Tip - Trailer Tips

No one likes to admit it.  After all we 're all riders.  But occasionally the time comes when we need to trailer our bike to an event, the dealer or even during a move.  It's not difficult task, but the downside to incorrectly strapping down your bike can be significant.  It's also one of those jobs where everyone has an opinion on the correct way it should be done.  All your buddies are experts!

Here are a couple tips to successfully securing your bike–during those few times when you can't ride it!
Whether you haul with an enclosed or open trailer, ride a Big Twin or Sportster the principles to secure your bike are the same.

Loading can be the first tricky part. Lowered suspension will often cause the frame to drag on many trailers during loading.  Consider backing up to curb and loading the bike from a higher point to minimize the chances frame drag, or damaging your kickstand spring.



Invest in a good set of tie-downs–Ancra is one of the better brands and are readily available, including at any of our stores.  You will need 4 to completely secure your bike.  In addition, “Soft Hook” loops will make your job a lot easier.  These short, nylon looping straps will make securing around the fairing or close to the frame in the rear much easier and keep the tie-downs from scratching anything.

It is very important to have a solid brace for the front wheel.  The job of the tie-downs will be to pull forward on the bike, holding it tight against the brace.  The brace can be as simple as up against the back of a pick up bed, or a wood “wheel chock” mounted solidly to the floor of the trailer.   There are also many very good production wheel chocks available ranging from $30 - $300.  If you use the trailer more than 3 times a year consider investing in a quality wheel chock.

 

As a rule of thumb, the angle of the front straps should be parallel to the front forks and outward about 18 inches.  This will give the most stable pull when tightening the tie-downs.  Use solid anchors in the floor like long eye bolts.  Mounts held down with dry wall screws will not work.  When securing the handlebars BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO loop around any cables.  The tie-down or Soft Hook should be weaved around the cables to simply grab the handlebar.

In the rear, again the straps should pull forward and out, pulling the bike tight against the solid brace in the front.  Use solid mounts like the passenger footrests on Baggers or the swingarm on Softtails.  Don't  use the saddlebags guards on Bagger models.  They will bend.  On Dyna or Sportster models the lower shock mount is a good securing point. In all cases, use of the Soft Hooks will make it much easier to attach the tie-downs.

For bikes with a security system, be sure to leave a set of keys (and FOB) with the bike during transport to prevent the alarm from triggering.  Also when transporting a bike with a fuel valve, be sure to turn the gas off or all the movement will cause the carb overflow to leak.

Never use a cover when hauling a bike on an open trailer.  The wind, grit and buffeting will severely damage your paint and chrome. 

 

Also be sure to rinse your bike down after hauling on an open trailer. Especially when returning from Daytona.  The salt and debris from the road with corrode cad plated hardware.

Follow these tips,  use good common sense and those few times when you have to trailer will be as painless as possible.  Enjoy the Ride.


Tony D. & the Service Team at Wild Fire H-D

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Tech Tip - Advantages of Correct Tire Inflation

Maintaining correct tire inflation plays a major role in getting the most out of your motorcycle and enjoying the ride to its fullest…
Maintaining correct tire inflation pressure helps optimize tire performance and fuel economy. Correct tire inflation pressure allows riders to experience tire comfort, durability and performance designed to match the needs of their motorcycle. Tire deflection (the tread and sidewall flexing where the tread comes into contact with the road) will remain as originally designed and excessive sidewall flexing and tread squirm will be avoided. Heat buildup will be managed and rolling resistance will be appropriate. Proper tire inflation pressure also stabilizes the tire's structure, blending the tire's responsiveness, traction and handling.




An underinflated tire can't maintain its shape and becomes flatter than intended while in contact with the road. If a motorcycles tires are underinflated by only 6 psi it could lead to tire failure. Additionally, the tire’s tread life could be reduced by as much as 25%. Lower inflation pressure will allow the tire to deflect (bend) more as it rolls. This will build up internal heat, increase rolling resistance and cause a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%. You would experience a significant loss of steering precision and cornering stability. While 6 psi doesn’t seem excessively low, remember, it usually represents about 20% of the tire’s recommended pressure.

An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher . The pressure must be checked with a quality air gauge as the inflation pressure cannot be accurately estimated through visual inspection.

Your operator’s manual will have all the correct tire pressures for all your different needs in it.


Tony D. & The Wild Fire Service Team