Best Practices that Yield Results
Use a battery tender on motorcycles whenever possible.
Please follow the recommended testing and charging practices
Charging
AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) sealed batteries are the only type of batteries currently sold by Harley-Davidson. AGM batteries contain a fine fiberglass mat between the plates which absorb and immobilize the electrolytic acid, making them leak resistant. The acid is still available to the plates for fast reaction between the acid and plate material to deliver the required starting current.
NOTE:
Newer Harley-Davidson chargers are specifically designed to properly charge and maintain Harley-Davidson AGM type batteries and are the recommended charger. They safely charge conventional lead-acid batteries as well. These chargers are available from Harley-Davidson in both 5 bank (Part No. 94607- 98) and 10 bank (Part No. 94608-98) systems. These units charge the battery (red light on), maintain 14.6 volts for the proper period of time (blinking green light), and then automatically cut back to approximately 13.1 volts (steady green light), thereby preventing overcharge and the resultant loss of electrolyte. The older chargers only bring an AGM battery to approximately 60 percent of full charge at the end of the charge sequence (steady green light). This low state of charge can lead to battery damage
Overcharging
AGM type batteries are filled with the proper amount of electrolyte and then sealed. If a charger reaches too high a charge voltage (15 volts or above), the water in the electrolyte will begin to evaporate. This water vapor is released through a special one-way relief valve on the top of the battery case. Since the AGM battery is permanently sealed, the water cannot be replenished and the battery becomes permanently low on electrolyte. A battery in this state develops internal corrosion and insufficient ion flow similar to a typical lead-acid battery that is low on electrolyte. This can result in loss of performance and eventual battery failure. A sealed battery with concave sides is an example of one that has been overcharged and has lost electrolyte. Overcharging is a major cause of sealed battery failure.
Undercharging
If a battery charger does not bring the battery to a full charge, several problems can occur:
• The rated battery capacity will not be reached and the charging system may not bring the battery to a full charge, especially in those instances where customers take short rides or ride slowly with their electrical accessories on.
• If the motorcycle is stored in a cold climate, an undercharged battery can freeze and crack. So if you are going to leave you bike for a prolong period of time make Sure to use the appropriate battery tender Also realize the average battery life if maintained properly is 4 yrs. Again if maintained properly.
Tony D.
Service Manager
Wild Fire Harley-Davidson
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Tech Tip - Four Great Service Promotions for the Month of April
There are always great things going on at our three dealerships. But with the deluge of information you receive daily, it's easy to miss our Service message in the noise. I want to recap some of the Service promotions we're offering in the month of April at all our dealerships.
Tony D. and the Wild Fire Harley Service Team
p.s. If you want to be the first to receive information about events at any of our three dealerships, please be sure to sign up for text alerts on your mobile device. Simply text get wild to 77577
- Free tire installation on any tire purchased at the dealership. That's right: purchase a tire from us, and we'll install it on your Harley for free. In most cases, we can install them while you wait, without an appointment. Be sure to call first to make sure we have your tire in stock.
- The service department will pick up your motorcycle for free within 35 miles of the store. With three stores, that means we'll pick up your bike for free if you're anywhere in Chicago, Tinley Park, Mokena, Frankfort, Bolingbrook, Oak Lawn, Palos Hills, Bridgeview, Joliet, Batavia, Geneva, St. Charles, South Elgin, Carpentersville, Barrington, Northbrook, Libertyville: pretty much anywhere in Chicagoland or Northern Illinois and we've got you covered. Just call to schedule your free pickup and we'll send out one of our professional drivers to bring your bike in for service.
- If you're looking for a new seat or set of grips, we've got a deal for you. We'll give you $50 for your old seat, and $20 for your old grips when you buy a new pair. We'll even install them while you wait. No need to haul your old parts back home with you, and save money too. Go right now and take a good look at your grips and see if it's time to upgrade them and receive $20 off your purchase.
Tony D. and the Wild Fire Harley Service Team
p.s. If you want to be the first to receive information about events at any of our three dealerships, please be sure to sign up for text alerts on your mobile device. Simply text get wild to 77577
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Tech Tip - Handlebars
There is a lot of talk these days about custom fitting our motorcycle. This tech tip we are going to talk about handlebar fitment.
Having the right handlebar setup will make a big difference on your riding comfort. When selecting handlebars you should sit on the bike and hold your arms in the position you are most comfortable. Your back should be straight and your arms should slightly bent. There are many different handlebars to choose from - so finding the right one can be difficult. Always remember if you have to reach where your arms are straight out and you back is not straight you will not last long riding in comfort. Some times just moving your handlebar an inch or 2 up or down makes a big difference in comfort. The next time you get on your bike check it out are your arms in the correct position?
Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team
Having the right handlebar setup will make a big difference on your riding comfort. When selecting handlebars you should sit on the bike and hold your arms in the position you are most comfortable. Your back should be straight and your arms should slightly bent. There are many different handlebars to choose from - so finding the right one can be difficult. Always remember if you have to reach where your arms are straight out and you back is not straight you will not last long riding in comfort. Some times just moving your handlebar an inch or 2 up or down makes a big difference in comfort. The next time you get on your bike check it out are your arms in the correct position?
Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Tech Tip - Spring Riding Checklist
Spring Riding Checklist:
It’s time to get your bike ready to ride. Here are a few tips from our experts in the service department as we get back on the roads:
Change your oil and filter.
Temperature changes during the winter months may have introduced water condensation and lessened the protection level.
Change your spark plugs.
A fresh set of spark plugs each season is an inexpensive way to ensure optimum performance.
Inspect your tires and air pressure.
Look for signs of dry rot, as well as punctures and slices in the sidewalls. Make sure you have plenty of tread. Now is the time to pull out your Motorcycle Owners Manual and check the recommended tire pressure for your model. Properly inflated tires not only help the motorcycle operate correctly, but they will keep you safer on the road, as well. Remember that tire pressure should be adjusted according to the load for one-up or two-up riding
Check your lights and signals.
Visibility is safety, enough said.
Check your gear.
Don’t forget the safety features that you wear! Inspect rain gear for holes or tears, make sure your face shield is clean and free from scratches or cracks and check that your boots have thick sturdy soles and adequate tread.
Now get out there and RIDE!
It’s time to get your bike ready to ride. Here are a few tips from our experts in the service department as we get back on the roads:
Change your oil and filter.
Temperature changes during the winter months may have introduced water condensation and lessened the protection level.
Change your spark plugs.
A fresh set of spark plugs each season is an inexpensive way to ensure optimum performance.
Inspect your tires and air pressure.
Look for signs of dry rot, as well as punctures and slices in the sidewalls. Make sure you have plenty of tread. Now is the time to pull out your Motorcycle Owners Manual and check the recommended tire pressure for your model. Properly inflated tires not only help the motorcycle operate correctly, but they will keep you safer on the road, as well. Remember that tire pressure should be adjusted according to the load for one-up or two-up riding
Check your lights and signals.
Visibility is safety, enough said.
Check your gear.
Don’t forget the safety features that you wear! Inspect rain gear for holes or tears, make sure your face shield is clean and free from scratches or cracks and check that your boots have thick sturdy soles and adequate tread.
Now get out there and RIDE!
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Tech Tip - POWDER COATING the CHORME Alternative
Nothing turns heads more on the street than a well tuned Harley rolling by decked out in chrome. From fork legs to wheels, mirrors to grips and every bracket in between the appeal of the classic look of chrome plating rarely disappoints. But there is an alternative, and one that over the past 5 years has really grown in popularity among riders. For good reason, more riders are having parts powder coated.
Differing from normal paint in that powder coating is essentially baked on, it gives riders one of the most economical, long lasting, and color-durable quality finishes available. The process provides a protective as well as decorative finish. The powder used is a mixture of finely ground particles of pigment and resin. The charged particles adhere to the electronically grounded surfaces until heated and fused into a smooth coating in a curing oven.
Powder coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading and wearing than most other finishes. Color selection is virtually unlimited with both high and low gloss, metallic and clear finishes. Thanks to the UV resistance of many of the powders, colors stay bright and vibrant longer. And texture selections range from smooth to a wrinkle or matte finish – matching the Factory's cosmetic motor treatments.
Almost anything you could imagine chrome plated can also be powder coated. Windshield brackets, headlamp rings, wheels, handlebars.. the list goes on. Parts that are oxidized, chrome plated or just plain rough looking can be stripped, prepped and coated for a lasting durable finish. And with the wide array of color options you can get more creative working with powder coating.
The cost of powder coating is often less expensive and the process is more environmentally friendly than the chrome alternative.
Probably one of the most popular parts we see getting powder coated are exhaust systems. A high-heat resistant powder coating on exhaust systems will provide a great custom look. A ceramic coating is added to the interior of the headpipes to help retain heat, or an exhaust wrap with also help manage heat. The benefits to exhaust systems include superior corrosion resistance protection against nicks and rust and prolonged muffler life.
From a cost, durability and creative perspective, powder coating is a great alternative to chrome plating. So next time you're considering adding chrome to your bike, take a step back and let your imagination ride wild!
Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service team
Powder coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading and wearing than most other finishes. Color selection is virtually unlimited with both high and low gloss, metallic and clear finishes. Thanks to the UV resistance of many of the powders, colors stay bright and vibrant longer. And texture selections range from smooth to a wrinkle or matte finish – matching the Factory's cosmetic motor treatments.
Almost anything you could imagine chrome plated can also be powder coated. Windshield brackets, headlamp rings, wheels, handlebars.. the list goes on. Parts that are oxidized, chrome plated or just plain rough looking can be stripped, prepped and coated for a lasting durable finish. And with the wide array of color options you can get more creative working with powder coating.
The cost of powder coating is often less expensive and the process is more environmentally friendly than the chrome alternative.
Probably one of the most popular parts we see getting powder coated are exhaust systems. A high-heat resistant powder coating on exhaust systems will provide a great custom look. A ceramic coating is added to the interior of the headpipes to help retain heat, or an exhaust wrap with also help manage heat. The benefits to exhaust systems include superior corrosion resistance protection against nicks and rust and prolonged muffler life.
From a cost, durability and creative perspective, powder coating is a great alternative to chrome plating. So next time you're considering adding chrome to your bike, take a step back and let your imagination ride wild!
Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service team
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Tech Tip - Headlamps
During nighttime riding, a motorcycle's headlight is often the only available light source. So, proper adjustment of a motorcycle's headlight is a crucial step in ensuring rider safety. If the headlight is improperly aimed, the rider will not be able to see the road ahead well enough to safely operate the motorcycle. Also, headlamps can loosen or move due to vibration, allowing the headlight to shift to an ineffective position. Headlight alignment should be checked often, and adjustments or repairs made promptly when needed.
Different styles of headlight are now available through Harley Davidson which can improve your night time vision. New headlights based on light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and high-intensity discharge (HID) technology. Enhancements also are being made to the halogen technology that remains the mainstay of headlight technology. In recent years, motorists have grown increasingly familiar with the bright, almost blue-looking light of HID headlights on high-end models. Instead of a filament, there are two electrodes and a light arc that fills the space between them. This results in a longer lifetime and greater light output. The resulting light is whiter than that of conventional halogen headlights. Until recently, a third alternative in lighting technology – the light emitting diode, or LED – was reserved for non-headlight applications, including interior lights, turn signals and brake lights. LED headlights are costlier than halogen – and about the same, or even more costly, than HID. But on the plus side, they use considerably less energy than the other technologies. LED headlights are about 95 percent more efficient than halogen.
Another advantage of LED headlights in comparison with halogen and HID is that they have longer life. The average lifetime of a halogen headlight is about 1,000 hours. In comparison an HID headlight lasts about 3,000 to 4,000 hours and an LED headlight lasts more than 6,000 hours, which is the lifetime of the average motorcycle. LED headlights also are less yellow than halogen lights, approaching HID in their whiteness and brightness and that should improve driver response times.
Thanks, Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team
Different styles of headlight are now available through Harley Davidson which can improve your night time vision. New headlights based on light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and high-intensity discharge (HID) technology. Enhancements also are being made to the halogen technology that remains the mainstay of headlight technology. In recent years, motorists have grown increasingly familiar with the bright, almost blue-looking light of HID headlights on high-end models. Instead of a filament, there are two electrodes and a light arc that fills the space between them. This results in a longer lifetime and greater light output. The resulting light is whiter than that of conventional halogen headlights. Until recently, a third alternative in lighting technology – the light emitting diode, or LED – was reserved for non-headlight applications, including interior lights, turn signals and brake lights. LED headlights are costlier than halogen – and about the same, or even more costly, than HID. But on the plus side, they use considerably less energy than the other technologies. LED headlights are about 95 percent more efficient than halogen.
Another advantage of LED headlights in comparison with halogen and HID is that they have longer life. The average lifetime of a halogen headlight is about 1,000 hours. In comparison an HID headlight lasts about 3,000 to 4,000 hours and an LED headlight lasts more than 6,000 hours, which is the lifetime of the average motorcycle. LED headlights also are less yellow than halogen lights, approaching HID in their whiteness and brightness and that should improve driver response times.
Thanks, Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team
Friday, March 11, 2011
Tech Tip - Trailer Tips
No one likes to admit it. After all we 're all riders. But occasionally the time comes when we need to trailer our bike to an event, the dealer or even during a move. It's not difficult task, but the downside to incorrectly strapping down your bike can be significant. It's also one of those jobs where everyone has an opinion on the correct way it should be done. All your buddies are experts!
Here are a couple tips to successfully securing your bike–during those few times when you can't ride it!
Whether you haul with an enclosed or open trailer, ride a Big Twin or Sportster the principles to secure your bike are the same.
Loading can be the first tricky part. Lowered suspension will often cause the frame to drag on many trailers during loading. Consider backing up to curb and loading the bike from a higher point to minimize the chances frame drag, or damaging your kickstand spring.
Invest in a good set of tie-downs–Ancra is one of the better brands and are readily available, including at any of our stores. You will need 4 to completely secure your bike. In addition, “Soft Hook” loops will make your job a lot easier. These short, nylon looping straps will make securing around the fairing or close to the frame in the rear much easier and keep the tie-downs from scratching anything.
It is very important to have a solid brace for the front wheel. The job of the tie-downs will be to pull forward on the bike, holding it tight against the brace. The brace can be as simple as up against the back of a pick up bed, or a wood “wheel chock” mounted solidly to the floor of the trailer. There are also many very good production wheel chocks available ranging from $30 - $300. If you use the trailer more than 3 times a year consider investing in a quality wheel chock.
As a rule of thumb, the angle of the front straps should be parallel to the front forks and outward about 18 inches. This will give the most stable pull when tightening the tie-downs. Use solid anchors in the floor like long eye bolts. Mounts held down with dry wall screws will not work. When securing the handlebars BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO loop around any cables. The tie-down or Soft Hook should be weaved around the cables to simply grab the handlebar.
In the rear, again the straps should pull forward and out, pulling the bike tight against the solid brace in the front. Use solid mounts like the passenger footrests on Baggers or the swingarm on Softtails. Don't use the saddlebags guards on Bagger models. They will bend. On Dyna or Sportster models the lower shock mount is a good securing point. In all cases, use of the Soft Hooks will make it much easier to attach the tie-downs.
For bikes with a security system, be sure to leave a set of keys (and FOB) with the bike during transport to prevent the alarm from triggering. Also when transporting a bike with a fuel valve, be sure to turn the gas off or all the movement will cause the carb overflow to leak.
Never use a cover when hauling a bike on an open trailer. The wind, grit and buffeting will severely damage your paint and chrome.
Also be sure to rinse your bike down after hauling on an open trailer. Especially when returning from Daytona. The salt and debris from the road with corrode cad plated hardware.
Follow these tips, use good common sense and those few times when you have to trailer will be as painless as possible. Enjoy the Ride.
Here are a couple tips to successfully securing your bike–during those few times when you can't ride it!
Whether you haul with an enclosed or open trailer, ride a Big Twin or Sportster the principles to secure your bike are the same.
Loading can be the first tricky part. Lowered suspension will often cause the frame to drag on many trailers during loading. Consider backing up to curb and loading the bike from a higher point to minimize the chances frame drag, or damaging your kickstand spring.
Invest in a good set of tie-downs–Ancra is one of the better brands and are readily available, including at any of our stores. You will need 4 to completely secure your bike. In addition, “Soft Hook” loops will make your job a lot easier. These short, nylon looping straps will make securing around the fairing or close to the frame in the rear much easier and keep the tie-downs from scratching anything.
It is very important to have a solid brace for the front wheel. The job of the tie-downs will be to pull forward on the bike, holding it tight against the brace. The brace can be as simple as up against the back of a pick up bed, or a wood “wheel chock” mounted solidly to the floor of the trailer. There are also many very good production wheel chocks available ranging from $30 - $300. If you use the trailer more than 3 times a year consider investing in a quality wheel chock.
As a rule of thumb, the angle of the front straps should be parallel to the front forks and outward about 18 inches. This will give the most stable pull when tightening the tie-downs. Use solid anchors in the floor like long eye bolts. Mounts held down with dry wall screws will not work. When securing the handlebars BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO loop around any cables. The tie-down or Soft Hook should be weaved around the cables to simply grab the handlebar.
In the rear, again the straps should pull forward and out, pulling the bike tight against the solid brace in the front. Use solid mounts like the passenger footrests on Baggers or the swingarm on Softtails. Don't use the saddlebags guards on Bagger models. They will bend. On Dyna or Sportster models the lower shock mount is a good securing point. In all cases, use of the Soft Hooks will make it much easier to attach the tie-downs.
For bikes with a security system, be sure to leave a set of keys (and FOB) with the bike during transport to prevent the alarm from triggering. Also when transporting a bike with a fuel valve, be sure to turn the gas off or all the movement will cause the carb overflow to leak.
Never use a cover when hauling a bike on an open trailer. The wind, grit and buffeting will severely damage your paint and chrome.
Also be sure to rinse your bike down after hauling on an open trailer. Especially when returning from Daytona. The salt and debris from the road with corrode cad plated hardware.
Follow these tips, use good common sense and those few times when you have to trailer will be as painless as possible. Enjoy the Ride.
Tony D. & the Service Team at Wild Fire H-D
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