Tech Tip - Battery Life

When should I replace the battery in my bike?

I've known John since he purchased his Sportster new in 1998.  I haven't seen John in a while due to moves kids, pets and job changes.  So, it was a surprise to see him at the service counter on Monday evening.

It turns out John is looking to sell his bike.  And he needs a battery to get it running.  This time of year, we see a lot of people come in for a replacement battery, and looking at the date codes on the old batteries we get an idea of approximately how long a battery will last in each of the types of bikes (turns out it's usually between 3 and 4 years with good battery care.)

John didn't have his battery with him so I asked him how old his battery was.  Turns out he was replacing his original battery!  That's over eleven years of service out of his original battery.  That's an exceptional life for a battery on a Sportster.  John attributed the long battery life to several things:

• He always pulls the battery out of the bike during the winter and brings it inside the house
• He keeps the battery on a Battery Tender battery charger inside the house
• When he's installing the battery every spring, he uses a corrosion protectant on the terminals

John didn't mention this, but after working on his bike a few times, I know he also tightens the heck out of his battery terminals to be sure the bolts don't come loose.  When the bolts come loose, the connection will arc and build up corrosion on the terminals and cables.  This can make the bike difficult to start and even prevent charging, leading to shortened battery life or even being stranded with a bike that won't start.

While John was at the counter explaining his battery care tips, another rider was nearby and overheard our conversation.  He remarked "I replace the battery in my bike every two years.  I can't afford to be stranded if my battery decides to die on the way to The Roundup or a bike blessing."

So, there you have two extreme opposites of the battery spectrum. John, whose original battery lasted and amazing eleven-plus years, and Earl who replaces the battery in his Street Glide every two years for peace of mind.

Ride Safe.
Chris Hajer

Tech Tip - Backfiring or Popping on Deceleration

More than likely your engine is "popping" not really backfiring. Backfiring, is extremely rare these days with electronic ignitions and the high reliability of engines. Real backfiring means the engine is not properly timed and the fuel/air mix is getting a spark and ignition at the wrong time (when the intake valve is open). Real backfiring is actually the bike "spitting up" in a sense, backwards through the carburetor or intake.

 

So, the popping you are hearing is not back-firing. It is a popping resonating sound generated by a lean condition on deceleration. When you suddenly close the throttle, the incoming air is choked off and the closed throttle also causes the bike to return to idle on the very lean idle circuit. However, momentum of the bike is actually "driving" the engine in a sense, and that engine is still spinning at rpm that needs far more gas than the closed throttle position can provide. The engine is still spinning but the incoming fuel rate is very low, until just enough builds up in the combustion chamber to "fire" on the exhaust stroke of the engine.

Don't "change the plugs" like some people suggest, it’s a waste of time and money. Messing with the ignition timing really won't help either, because it is still a lean fuel/air mix on deceleration that is the cause. ( I said cause and not problem, because the popping is not at all damaging to the bike).

 

 Often people think their bike is not tuned properly after the addition of “aftermarket” mufflers because of the additional popping they hear. Stock mufflers provide a lot of volume for the rumbles and popping in the exhaust to be toned down by resonating in the larger muffler canister. Motorcycle builders also have to meet sound regulations along with emission standards. Some of that sound proofing is in the mufflers. But, aftermarket mufflers that offer easier breathing, and are usually lighter and smaller, don't offer that same volume (Less volume = less sound attenuation = more noise and more popping). Modifying the exhaust (especially if it gets louder) will only make the popping louder. Because most aftermarket pipes produce "lower back pressure", to add to the popping; aftermarket pipes also tend to lower back pressure this will cause the fuel/air mix to lean out. So don’t worry about that popping you sometimes hear and enjoy this year’s riding season.


Tony D.
Service Manager
Wild Fire Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - New ride Woes

Tony from Mount Prospect recently brought in his 2002 Sportster XL1200 Custom with just 965 miles on it.  The bike was beautiful; immaculate and nearly brand new.  This bike is new to him, having just purchased it from a friend, and he had a few concerns.

1. "There's a noise like air blowing in the front end of the bike."

That's a pretty odd description of the problem, but at least I know where to look (and listen).  After a couple of minutes of discussion with the customer I determined that the noise goes away when the brakes are applied.  This is good information.  I took the bike for a quick ride, got it up to speed, then turned off the motor.  I heard the noise the customer was describing (I'd describe it like a "shush, shush, shush" from the front end.)  The noise also went away when the front brake was applied.

After verifying that the rotor was not warped (front brake lever did not pulse when applied) and that there was fluid in the master cylinder (the sight glass was dark) I explained that the noise he was hearing was perfectly normal.  It's caused by contact between the brake pads and the rotor.  The brakes on some bikes make an intermittent sound, like this one, and other make more of a constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" as the wheel turns.  So long as brake function is normal, this noise by itself does not indicate a problem.  Concern addressed.

2.  "Speedometer stopped working."

This one is easy to verify (during the test ride for the front brake noise, I verified that the speedometer was not working.)  The lighting on the speedometer was still working, but the trip odometer and speedometer were not working.  There are only a couple of things that can fail with this system: a) speed sensor at the transmission, or b) the speedometer itself. 

Being a 1200 Custom and subject to the excess vibration in the handlebars, I thought in this case it might be the speedometer, NOT the more common speed sensor.  I removed the seat to get at the connector for the speedometer tester and immediately found the problem.  The wiring from the speed sensor to the speedometer had been disconnected. It looked like someone had recently installed a battery and either moved the connector and it came undone, or unplugged it.  In any case, after putting the connector back together, I was able to verify on another test ride that the speedometer was working.

In the process of looking over the motorcycle to address Tony's concerns, I found and fixed a couple additional problems.

1. Left hand controls were loose.  This was a common problem on the 1200 Customs due to the type of handlebars on the bike and the way they're mounted.  Harley-Davidson even had a recall for the mirrors on this bike due to excessive vibration and mirror breaking.

2.  Top front motor mount bolts were loose.  Sportsters prior to 2004 (non-rubber mounted) were all subject to these bolts loosening up and sometimes even falling out.  Any time there's a lot of stress on a fastener, like this one, it's subject to loosening up.

3.  Throttle cables had too much free play.  This is a maintenance item.  The throttle control needs to have a certain amount of free play to be safe when the handlebars are moved, but the free play in these cables was excessive.

It's interesting to note that the customer knew about two of the concerns, but the other three problems were not mentioned at all.  That's the benefit of bringing your bike in for service.  We have trained technicians with years of experience on all the Harley-Davidson and Buell models. We can quickly and easily diagnose AND repair issues like these, while you wait.

Ride safe!

Chris Hajer
Service Manager
Illinois Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - Washing your Bike

If you want motorcycle cleaning tips that will help you clean your motorcycle faster, easier, and without damaging it, here are some tips to help you...

       

NEVER START WITH A HOT MOTORCYCLE LET IT COOL FIRST 
  
What Motorcycle Cleaning Products You Will Need:

•    Some soft, clean cloths. You'll need some for washing and some that you keep dry for drying and polishing. A dirty rag can scratch the bike.     
•    Wheel cleaner made specifically for wheels
•    Leather conditioner for saddle and any accessories
•    Clean sponges - a dirty sponge can contain dirt which can scratch paint and chrome.
•    Cleaning solution made specifically for motorcycles. Because the cleaners will get on the paint, saddle and chrome, use products that are not going to cause problems with discoloring the finish or "blue" the chrome. When it comes to motorcycle cleaning, many bikers make a mistake of using the wrong motorcycle cleaning products, which can damage your motorcycle.
•    You may want a bucket for mixing solutions. Follow the mixing directions on any supplies. Be sure each product is used properly.
•    Of course, you need a water hose as well.
If you have heavy dirt or have bugs on the fenders, hose down those areas gently from top to bottom first. This will allow them a kind of "pre-soak" to loosen them. Beginning from the top to the bottom, wash gently, using a clean soft cloth or a wash mitt. If your cleaning cloth becomes soiled, do not take the chance of scratching the paint or chrome; change to a clean cloth. If you use a sponge, be absolutely certain no debris gathers in the sponge pores and causes scratches.

Rinse the bike from top to bottom, paying special attention to any areas of extra heavy soil. If the heavily soiled areas do not come clean, you may need to do a little extra cleaning in those areas. Just remember to be gentle. It is far better to wash a spot three times than to rub the area hard and end up with no shine in the paint, dulled chrome or visible scratches.

Check every little place that dirt can hide to be certain you have the motorcycle completely clean. Then begin the final rinse process. Hose the motorcycle from the top down. Then rinse exactly the same way again. Leaving any trace of cleaning products is very bad for the finishes. While rinsing, watch how the water reacts and drains from the bike. If water beads, then a full polish is optional. If the water runs off in sheets and fails to bead at all, you probably need to take the time to perform a full polish job with manufacture-recommended polishes

Use a wheel cleaner and soft rag to completely and thoroughly clean each wheel. Not only does dirt collect on the wheels, but as the brakes are used, dust from the brake pads can get on the wheel and actually cause corrosion because the metals react with one another. Rinse the wheel thoroughly.

Dry your motorcycle off with clean soft rags. This process can best be done in the shade rather than direct sunlight, if possible. This prevents streaking. Check for streaks and if you need to, dampen a spot and dry that area again. Just a few drops of water is all you need to moisten a streaked spot.

Mike Johnson
City Limits Harley-Davidson - Service Manager

Tech Tip - Best Practices Battery Care

Best Practices that Yield Results
Use a battery tender on motorcycles whenever possible.
Please follow the recommended testing and charging practices

Charging
AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) sealed batteries are the only type of batteries currently sold by Harley-Davidson. AGM batteries contain a fine fiberglass mat between the plates which absorb and immobilize the electrolytic acid, making them leak resistant. The acid is still available to the plates for fast reaction between the acid and plate material to deliver the required starting current.

NOTE:
 Newer Harley-Davidson chargers are specifically designed to properly charge and maintain Harley-Davidson AGM type batteries and are the recommended charger. They safely charge conventional lead-acid batteries as well. These chargers are available from Harley-Davidson in both 5 bank (Part No. 94607- 98) and 10 bank (Part No. 94608-98) systems. These units charge the battery (red light on), maintain 14.6 volts for the proper period of time (blinking green light), and then automatically cut back to approximately 13.1 volts (steady green light), thereby preventing overcharge and the resultant loss of electrolyte. The older chargers only bring an AGM battery to approximately 60 percent of full charge at the end of the charge sequence (steady green light). This low state of charge can lead to battery damage

Overcharging
AGM type batteries are filled with the proper amount of electrolyte and then sealed. If a charger reaches too high a charge voltage (15 volts or above), the water in the electrolyte will begin to evaporate. This water vapor is released through a special one-way relief valve on the top of the battery case. Since the AGM battery is permanently sealed, the water cannot be replenished and the battery becomes permanently low on electrolyte. A battery in this state develops internal corrosion and insufficient ion flow similar to a typical lead-acid battery that is low on electrolyte. This can result in loss of performance and eventual battery failure. A sealed battery with concave sides is an example of one that has been overcharged and has lost electrolyte. Overcharging is a major cause of sealed battery failure.

Undercharging
If a battery charger does not bring the battery to a full charge, several problems can occur:
• The rated battery capacity will not be reached and the charging system may not bring the battery to a full charge, especially in those instances where customers take short rides or ride slowly with their electrical accessories on.
• If the motorcycle is stored in a cold climate, an undercharged battery can freeze and crack. So if you are going to leave you bike for a prolong period of time make Sure to use the appropriate battery tender Also realize the average battery life if maintained properly is 4 yrs. Again if maintained properly.

Tony D. 
Service Manager
Wild Fire Harley-Davidson

Tech Tip - Four Great Service Promotions for the Month of April

There are always great things going on at our three dealerships.  But with the deluge of information you receive daily, it's easy to miss our Service message in the noise.  I want to recap some of the Service   promotions we're offering in the month of April at all our dealerships.

• Free tire installation on any tire purchased at the dealership.   That's right: purchase a tire from us, and we'll install it on your Harley for free.  In most cases, we can install them while you wait, without an appointment.  Be sure to call first to make sure we have your tire in stock.

• The service department will pick up your motorcycle for free within 35 miles of the store.  With three stores, that means we'll pick up your bike for free if you're anywhere in Chicago, Tinley Park, Mokena, Frankfort, Bolingbrook, Oak Lawn, Palos Hills, Bridgeview, Joliet, Batavia, Geneva, St. Charles, South Elgin, Carpentersville, Barrington, Northbrook, Libertyville: pretty much anywhere in Chicagoland or Northern Illinois and we've got you covered.  Just call to schedule your free pickup and we'll send out one of our professional drivers to bring your bike in for service.

• If you're looking for a new seat or set of grips, we've got a deal for you.  We'll give you $50 for your old seat, and $20 for your old grips when you buy a new pair.  We'll even install them while you wait.  No need to haul your old parts back home with you, and save money too. Go right now and take a good look at your grips and see if it's time to upgrade them and receive $20 off your purchase.

Tony D. and the Wild Fire Harley Service Team

p.s. If you want to be the first to receive information about events at any of our three dealerships, please be sure to sign up for text alerts on your mobile device.  Simply text get wild to 77577

Tech Tip - Handlebars

There is a lot of talk these days about custom fitting our motorcycle. This tech tip we are going to talk about handlebar fitment.

Having the right handlebar setup will make a big difference on your riding comfort. When selecting handlebars you should sit on the bike and hold your arms in the position you are most comfortable. Your back should be straight and your arms should slightly bent. There are many different handlebars to choose from - so finding the right one can be difficult. Always remember if you have to reach where your arms are straight out and you back is not straight you will not last long riding in comfort. Some times just moving your handlebar an inch or 2 up or down makes a big difference in comfort. The next time you get on your bike check it out are your arms in the correct position?

Tony D. & the Wild Fire Service Team